Vegetable Garden in January
The vegetable garden in January is a delightful place. For most of the month the weather is too cold or wet to do much outside. Therefore, do not put pressure on yourself to be active in the garden. Simply taking in some fresh air, the sights and sounds of nature may be sufficient to enjoy your gardening space.
In The Seasoned Gardener, I wrote about January
‘The New Year brings with it a renewed enthusiasm for many gardeners. In the UK, all over social media, in print and in video, I see people sowing seeds for the new growing year. The problem I have with sowing seeds so early is that those seedlings and young plants needs to be tended and cared for and kept frost free for several months before they can be planted out into the garden. Inevitably by late March, there are countless photos and questions regarding leggy plants from new growers who have succumbed to the idea that we need to sow seeds very early in the year.
I understand the need to feel like we are doing something after a few months of being more sedentary in terms of gardening. However, doing something productive can sometimes be counterproductive. Surely it is better us use the time to appreciate the quieter months, than rush headlong into growing too soon, only to find that the spindly seedlings have failed and that you need to resow or re-plant later on?’
Having said all of that, there are some things to do in the vegetable garden in January should you want to venture out.
Rhubarb
The reality is that rhubarb often looks little more than some dark lumps with a few pink or green shoots. Additionally, in colder areas, there may be no sign of growth yet at all. However, January is a good month to place forcing pots over rhubarb crowns.
Forcing pots are usually tall terracotta containers with an opening at each end. The wider end is placed on the ground over the rhubarb. And the narrower end is covered with a lid. This gives the gardener the opportunity to look into the pot without disturbing the growth. There are alternatives to expensive terracotta forcing pots. Use a barrel, dustbin or even a bucket, upside down over the rhubarb crown and weighted down with bricks or anchored with ground pegs. If you prefer the traditional look, try a plastic rhubarb forcing pot.
The idea behind forcing is simple. The new growth has additional warmth, but light is excluded. This means stems will grow earlier and be tall, pale and be particularly sweet. It allows for an early crop of sweet stems at a time of year when few other fruits are available. However, let’s not forget that rhubarb is actually a vegetable and as such, works well in savoury dishes too.
Apple and pear trees
Prune apple and pear trees in January, while the plants are dormant and the sap is barely moving. This means that any sap is less likely to flow from any cuts, allowing the tree to heal more rapidly.
Spend some time observing the tree. Look at its over all shape, note any branches that cross over each other or rub together. Identify any diseased or dead branches. Start by removing dead or diseased branches. It is a good hygiene practice to clean the loppers or pruning saw before moving to healthy branches.
Next, remove the branches that are overlapping, where possible cut to just above an outward facing bud.
Autumn fruit raspberries
There are two types of raspberry. Summer fruiting raspberries produce fruits on last years growth. While autumn fruiting raspberries fruit on stems produced this year.
For autumn fruiting raspberries, all the growth left on the plant over winter can be considered unnecessary. Cut all growth down to the ground to encourage even more shoots.
Alternatively, cut stems to around half their existing height, this will give you an earlier crop by a 2-4 weeks.
This may seem like a mundane, or even boring task, but it will increase yields and help the appearance of your vegetable garden in January.
Redcurrants and Gooseberries
Aim to create an open centre plant that looks like a goblet. Cut out the oldest, least productive branches. And remove any dead or diseased areas. Prune away any crossing or rubbing branches.
Potatoes
If you have bought seed potatoes, do not leave them in the packaging because there is a risk they will sprout and grow long, leggy shoots. Store them in a cool, bright spot. The cold will prevent them from sprouting too quickly and the light will prevent legginess.
Many gardeners prepare or chit their seed potatoes. This is the process of encouraging short, strong growth in readiness for planting out in late winter or early spring in the ground. Alternatively, grow potatoes in containers for easier harvesting and easy frost protection.
Sprouted seeds and microgreens
Sprouted seeds for using in salads and sandwiches and microgreens are ideal for growing on a kitchen windowsill. Homegrown sprouted seeds and microgreens are easy to grow in a matter of days.
Sow vegetable seeds
There are a number of vegetable that can be started now, if you have the warmth, light and space. See my month by month seed sowing guide for a detailed look at what to sow in January.
Check structures and safety
Check that plant supports, arches and arbors for damage and organise repairs as necessary.
Clear away unused pots, seed trays and bags to reduce hiding places for slugs and snails.
Make a new low tunnel cloche or cold frame to warm the soil more quickly and allow seeds to be sown earlier.
Weeding and mulching
Weeds will continue to grow during the winter months. Remove and add weeds to the compost heap. Once an area of ground is cleared of weeds, apply a 2.5cm – 5cm lqyer of mulch. Mulching reduces the regrowth of weeds, protect against erosion from wind and rain and to feed the soil.
Ornamental gardening in January
There are other tasks that can be done, outside the vegetable garden in January. Check out my list of key tasks in the ornamental garden.
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